would return to Chimanimani, a small village in Zimbabwe that is host to a backpackers' hideaway called Heaven's Lodge. The owner has three pet peacocks that stroll the grounds. The tin-roofed lodge is the town's only hot spot, with natives and visitors stopping in for a beer. I recall waking up to see one of the most beautiful sunrises I have ever laid eyes on. I learned a great deal about humanity there, too. Groups of people who walk slowly in a tight pack and take up the entire footpath. They drive me crazy...